THE FRUGAL OENOPHILE
ine Appreciation through Education
email newsletter: summer 2007

In This Issue	(Warning: contains a lot of anti-LCBO rhetoric)
	Thoughts on the LCBO 2005-6 Annual Report Booze Barns Attracting More Teens New Food-wine Matching Tool New Words for Blotto OWPA Seeks Better Deal Classics Catalog adds Greg Norman Wines

Wine Demographics, LCBO Style

There's no denying the Ontario liquor giant's success, although you have to admit that a virtual monopoly should be able to make a pretty good go of it. An important part of the LCBO's marketing strategy -- and, presumably, a factor in its success -- is an awareness of who their customers are. To keep on top of this important issue, the LCBO did an extensive wine buyer survey last year. In a section of the 2005-2006 annual report, the LCBO's brain trust lays out their interpretation of the results. So, which of Ontario's new market segments do you fall into?

1. Experience Seekers
"Interested in red and imported wines". Although this group may turn to wine reviews, they depend mostly on the LCBO's internal publication, Food & Drink. Perhaps they think it contains impartial reporting rather than primarily advertorials.

2. Mixers & Shakers
"Single and under 25". Buying decisions for this group are driven as much by bonus Air Miles as anything else. Apparently they'd just as soon drink beer and coolers … anything but wine.

3. Peers & Cheers
"Interested in beer, spirits and occasionally Ontario white wine". Interesting palates, this bunch. What is it about Ontario whites that set them apart from the imports, or from Ontario red wines? Or could this be the group that buys all that J-T white label plonk thinking they're supporting Canadian wineries?

4. Young Experimental Sociables
Although analysis says this group is interested in all wine from all regions, their purchases are driven as much by Air Miles and "value-adds" (sort of like the toy in the Happy Meal) than by anything that has to do with wine quality. This must be the General List's core market: People who will buy as long as they're getting a free corkscrew and a few extra Air Miles.

5. Aspiring Stay-at-homes
How does one aspire and yet stay at home? This group is brand loyal, but can be swayed by a 75-cent discount and bonus Air Miles. Nor can they decide which they prefer: wine or imported beer.

6. Comfy at Homes
Another group whose focus is Ontario white wine, although I would have guessed this is the "Canadian Sherry" crowd. When they're not staying at home, they're cruising the shops looking for bargains and -- again -- Air Miles.

Now, lest you think these categories are ill-conceived or, heaven forbid, cynical, you should know that the LCBO interviewed fully 1000 people. So rest secure in the comfort of knowing that the LCBO has a very good idea of what we, as wine consumers, are looking for, and they will be tailoring their marketing displays to our wants and needs. Judging by what's been showing up on the General List lately, we apparently want mainly low-end wine in tetrapak.

Long Time Gone... It's been a hectic year for me. I agreed to teach a graduate course this semester and it's taking far more of my time and energy than I expected. The result is that the newsletter has sat on the back burner for quite some time. When I received the most recent LCBO annual report, I couldn't help but wonder about the direction they'd decided to pursue. As a consumer, I am continually frustrated by the lack of selection, lack of quality, and unreasonable pricing that are not seen in provinces that are not hamstrung by a liquor board. While the LCBO has certain strengths and positive points, its shortcomings hurt wine enthusiasts across the board. I hope my comments don't ruffle too many feathers.

Dissecting the Numbers

The public appears to want the LCBO to be socially responsible, and so, the LCBO "appears" to be responsible. The numbers put forward in the 05/06 annual report as successes, but close analysis makes me wonder.

For example, more than 1.7 million potential purchasers were challenged by LCBO staff during the period. Of these, at whopping 97% were suspected as underage. And this number is up more than 20% over the previous year. Obviously, the message "don't even try" isn't getting across to Ontario's youth.

As well, more than 112,000 people were refused outright. This is a 25% increase over the previous period. It seems the LCBO's reputation for social responsibility doesn't actually discourage anyone.

Ontario's Student ID card program is an easy way for anyone of age to get the necessary proof of age. So why has the program issued a mere 4300 cards in 05-06 and just 36,600 cards since day one?

A Surfeit of Selection

I'm not usually a big fan of online wine and food matching pages, if for the only reason that I don't have an internet connection in my kitchen. At worst, these tools present you with a fill-in-the-blanks form that defies you to type in something intelligent. Even the best that I've seen in the past give either a banal selection from someone's top 10 list, or the matches are so esoteric that even Christie's would have trouble pulling it off.

Natalie MacLean has recently upgraded her own matching system. According to her recent press release, the database now offers 360,000(!) food and wine matches (one has to ask, first, who counted them and, second, whether anyone has tried them all). The look-up database is built on broad brush strokes -- my preference. Rather than tell you that the 2001 Mercury goes with that BBQ chicken, it leads you through a paring down of options until you have a match that is both appealing and possible. Check it out at : www.nataliemaclean.com

A Mouse that Roars

Of all the small production craft wineries in Ontario’s Beamsville area, Mountain Road winery is one that stands out for both its humble presentation and it’s stellar wines.

The Kocsis family has been growing grapes in the Niagara Peninsula for generations. Steve Kocsis started grape growing on Mountain Road in 1981, selling his grapes to other wineries in the area, but didn’t make his own wines until 1999. The result is truly astounding wines that are put out for sale in what must be the local industry’s smallest and most unassuming wine boutique, located in a small room behind the garage of the Kocsis family house. This is how it should be. When you talk about "cult" wines, you’re looking at limited production from carefully cultivated grapes, lovingly harvested and selected, and then vinified by the most talented people. Steve Kocsis and his principal winemaker Jon Witkowski have done just this. And the proof is in both the wines and the copious awards the wines have received. Here, then, are a few of Mountain Road’s recent releases.

Mountain Road Gamay Rosé Dry VQA 2005 - $12.15
Deep coral pink colour. The nose shows delicate raspberry aroma, with nuances of lemon and apple. The palate has just a hint of a tingle, with strawberry/lemon flavour and a crisp, refreshing acidity. Don't chill this one too much, and then serve it with pork, ratatouille or risotto.

Bench Chardonnay Unoaked VQA 2004 - $15.15
The light lemon-straw colour suggests a lighter style, but it's betrayed by a nose that's loaded up with vanilla, caramel, baked lemon and tropical fruits. The palate is silky smooth with citrus, apple and pear flavours plus a touch of pineapple. Very good quality and length. Not a showpiece, but excellent quality. Try with oily fish, shellfish or veal.

Barrel Fermented Chardonnay VQA 2003 - $15.95
The glass shows a rich lemony gold colour. The nose is overlain with sweet oak, tropical fruits, dried pineapple, ripe apple and a touch of caramel. The palate is lean, with a crisp acidity -- tangy with mainly baked lemon flavour. Worthy of its gold medal status. A good candidate for flavourful fish, chicken salad or nippy cheeses.

Chardonnay Reserve Beamsville bench VQA 2003 - $26.15
Very deep lemon-straw colour, and a nose that is resplendent with huge woody, vanilla bean, butter and pear aromas. Equally big on the palate; quite smokey -- almost charred without seeming overdone -- with caramel-apple flavour, crisp acidity and a lemony close. If this were from California and cost four times as much, it would likely become a cult wine. Match with quiche, baked poultry or even BBQ ribs.

New(?) Words for Drunk

Jagged up, boiled as an owl, mothered, curried and mashed, de-ossified, full tight, skinned, pie-eyed, gibbled, in the paint, pile-axed, rat-assed, stinko, torn off the frame, torqued, troll-eyed, wired to the tits, banjoed, chateaued, one over the eight, pixelated, swipey, wankered, zigzag, slaughtered, juice-looped, 12 gauged, Boris Yelstinned, cop-sluggin' drunk, five winos gone, jackassed, liver-lubed, monkey assed, mullocked, paralytic, stolichnyed, ten feet tall and bulletproof, tore up from the floor up, Kennedied, wearing a big hat, shined up, wingdinged, off the leash, drunk uncled, picassoed, and finally, locked out of your mind. (from moderndrunkardmagazine.com)

Splinter Group Seeks Better Deal for Ontario Wines

Although its beginnings were something of a response to a lack of support from the Government, LCBO and Wine Council of Ontario, the Ontario Wine Producers Association formed principally to address the needs of smaller winegrape growers and wineries. One of the organization's initiatives was -- and is -- "truth in labeling". The result is a separation in LCBO stores between 100% Ontario grown VQA wines and the Cellared in Canada blends of mainly imported wines (although the shelving division doesn't appear to be well enforced at the store level).

There are a few more initiatives on the table for the OWPA, but the two that are particularly interesting are the "2nd tier" group of wines and farmers markets.

In Ontario, wines are either VQA or not. That leaves a certain number of Ontario-grown wines in the gray area -- wines that did not qualify or chose not to qualify for VQA. These wines simply can't get shelf space because they're not VQA, plus they are not allowed to even use the word "Ontario" anywhere on the packaging. A 2nd tier would allow these wines to proclaim their heritage. This is a trend that has taken off in other wine producing countries (witness the shelves filled with Vin de Pays from France and IGT from Italy), and it has invigorated those countries' wine industries.

In Quebec, Nova Scotia and elsewhere in Canada, you can go to a farmers market and buy a bottle of locally grown wine -- often fruit wine, but not necessarily. Not in Ontario, though. Regulators have rolled out the same worn out arguments -- people will open their bottles in the parking lot, etc. -- but none of their points hold water. The OWPA will be petitioning the government with their proposal to allow producers to set up shop at farmers markets, a move that would be good news on both sides of the sales counter.

In order to carry their message further, the OWPA has created a new fee structure that should be good news not only for growers but for friends of the Ontario wine industry as well. Instead of the customary 1000s of dollars per year, the OWPA is asking a mere $300 full membership, $150 for growers only and -- here's the one that might interest you -- $50 for an associate membership. This means that anyone can join the organization. While it may be hard to rationalize belonging to a grape growers group, having your name on that membership list will increase the organization's voice at the government level. I firmly believe in what this group is doing and, were I not part of the wine media, I'd already have sent them my cheque. I hope you'll consider adding your voice to theirs. (You can download a membership form in a PDF file from this link: OWPA Membership Form)

Greg Norman Wines Now in Vintages Classics Catalog

Greg Norman (a.k.a. 'the shark') is pretty much a household name in the world of golf (and golf apparel). It looks like he's destined to become a household name in wine as well. His premium wines -- all priced below $25 -- have been added to the LCBO Classics Catalog, which means they will be continuously available (within reason) , and that's good news. These are high quality and good value wines across the board.

Australia

Victoria Chardonnay 2005
Subtle aromas of apple and butter give way to sweet oak and smoke. The palate is on the slender side, with apple and lemon flavours and a crisp -- almost hot -- acidity, and somewhat tart. My impression is that the wine was too cold as well as too young. Given its overall quality, it might be worth cellaring to see what happens.

Limestone Coast Shiraz 2005
Deep purply-cherry colour. Very spicy on the nose, with plum, fresh mint, and traces of vanilla and cardamom. A rich and juicy palate, yet somehow understated, with cool acidity, soft tannins and fresh berry flavours. A great deck wine that calls out for BBQ ribs.

Limestone Coast Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot 2004
The brilliant purple-ruby colour suggests youth. The nose is rife with blueberry, black currant and dark cherry with a trace of vanilla. A firm acidity shows up off the top, with youthful plum and blackberry flavours and moderate tannins. My impression is that it may be in a "dumb" stage. Another year of ageing would tell the tale. Certainly worth a look.

California

Santa Barbara County Chardonnay 2004
Somewhat deeper in colour than its Aussie cousin, with butter, sweet oak, ripe apple, with hints of lime and honey down deep. Nicely integrated, with a crispy acidity. Apparently there was no Malo done on this wine, and ageing was done in old oak. Quite the showpiece.

Paso Robles Petite Sirah 2004
Subtle vanilla, dark plum, beetroot and cedar aromas. The sample was served too cool, but showed a promising palate, with plum flavour and solid tannins. Worth considering, especially if you haven't sampled this particular grape.  

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From "The Frugal Oenophile's Lexicon of Wine Tasting Terms"

Hollow

A wine with enough attack and finish but something is lacking in the middle. May be the result of over-cropping

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Inspirational Quote

A wine doesn't have to be expensive to be overpriced - Laurie Daniel