THE FRUGAL OENOPHILE
Wine Appreciation through Education
email newsletter: december 2007

Good Will Gift Hunting

We're fast approaching the season of "Peace on earth, good will to all," and no doubt many of us will be expressing our good will in the form of a bottle of wine for the host. But before you head out, bottle in hand, to all those parties you've been invited to, take some time to do a bit of research. Taking a bottle to a friend's house is not necessarily straight forward. We all choose wine differently, and we also have different expectations for what becomes of that bottle. But it needn't be a painful process. Here are a few guidelines to make choosing wine trouble-free and, I hope, more rewarding.

1. Wine to Accompany Dinner
Your host will likely be putting a lot of effort into a dinner party, so help him or her pull it off by providing a wine that is appropriate. First, make the phone call and ask if it's OK to bring a bottle expressly for the table. Get some guidance and agreement on what sort of wine you will provide. A table wine should marry well with the dishes that will be served. When you go to select a bottle, don't skimp, but don't show off either. A mid-priced bottle of quality wine will always work. Also consider whether you will need to bring enough for everyone. If you prefer, offer to choose a wine for dessert or an aperitif.

2. Wine for the evening
The invitation said BYOB (although perhaps in a more sophisticated form) so now you have multiple objectives. What wine will you (and your companion) enjoy? Is there a discovery you want to show off for the benefit of the host and others? Is the wine expressly for sharing? Will it go with the food being served? You have more freedom here, but the basic rules are: (1) Take enough - figure on 1/2 bottle per person, more if it's a long evening; (2) avoid outright plonk and ego wines, although it's OK to spend a bit extra or show off some spectacular cheapy. Also, make it clear to the host that you're anxious to try this wine so it won't be set aside.

3. Wine as a gift
This is where you can show your stuff. You have many options, but in general, you shouldn't give someone a wine that you wouldn't want yourself. In fact, maybe go up a level or two in price/quality. For up-to-date advice, check with local wine reviewers or your neighbourhood wine consultant.

The wine you select should be a bit of a showpiece, but not necessarily expensive. Keep in mind that a good wine that is a bargain is still a good wine. Do you know your host's taste in wine? If so, look for something comparable but a little different. A Riesling fan might enjoy a Gewurztraminer from Alsace, or a food-friendly Kerner from Franken. Cab drinkers often enjoy Ontario Baco Noir. Or consider an Argentinean Malbec for a Shiraz lover.

Be sure to have the bottle(s) conspicuously gift wrapped. When you arrive at your host's house, present the wine with a flourish and a comment such as "This is for you, for later." To emphasize that this is a gift, you might take along a second wine to open that evening (if appropriate).

4. Special Cases
"My friend is a bit of a connoisseur."
As long as your friend isn't a wine snob who is inclined find fault with just about any consumable liquid, don't worry. A well-selected bottle will be appreciated. Here the "something different" rule comes in handy. Ask your wine merchant for a suggestion, pointing out that your friend knows wine. (My choice would be Hungarian Tokaji.) The exception is if your friend is a "real" connoisseur. In that case, take a bottle of fine olive oil or traditional balsamic vinegar instead.

"My friend knows nothing about wine."
Don't assume that a wine novice wouldn't be able to appreciate a nice wine. But don't force the issue. A good, mid-priced bottle will be appreciated as much as, or more than, an expensive one. Try not to step too far outside anyone’s comfort range, though. If you know they like Chardonnay, a nicely priced, user-friendly Chardonnay from a boutique winery would be ideal. (Canada's wine regions produce some excellent Chardonnay.) In fact, almost anything from a local winery will go over well.

One last rule: Don't sweat it. Wine is for enjoyment, not for keeping score, especially at this time of year.

News in Brief

Going to the Dogs this Christmas
One of the cleverer and more endearing ideas I've seen this season is Winery Dogs of BC Posters and Calendars. Dogs can be important members of the winery team, from guarding the vineyards against raccoons and deer to welcoming visitors to the tasting room. It's therefore appropriate that they be honoured in print. Part of the proceeds from poster and calendar sales will go to the BC SPCA.

Bonnie Doon Leads Charge for Honest Labelling
As more and more wineries turn to designer additives to achieve their “house style”, the Grahm Crew (as Randal Grahm calls his staff) will be putting ingredients labels on Bonnie Doon wines.

What wine labels should show is “Contains: grapes, yeast”, but some of today’s wines will required much larger back labels to accommodate all the chemicals that have been used to bang the wine into shape. Not so Bonnie Doon. Grahm hopes that the initiative will inspire other wineries to abandon additives and return to honest winemaking.

Ontario Welcomes Greenwash Wine
You may have seen a bottle of "plantatree" wine on store shelves and wondered what it's all about. Well, it's imported wine that wants you to think it's environmentally more friendly than its shelf mates. The fact that it's bottled in Ontario may be somewhat better than importing thousands of filled bottles, but wouldn't locally grown wine have been a better, more environmentally appropriate option? Now, the company is directing $2.50 from each bottle sold to plant trees in Sudbury ... a noble idea, but I think I'd rather send my $2.50 to an environmental group than pay $14.95 for foreign plonk with the hope that some token carbon offsetting is going to do the job.

Best Comment by a Liquor Store Manager

"This is better than anything we've got" (after receiving a copy of my Wine Trios Pocket Guide to Related Wine Styles)
 

A Wealth of Fizzy Delights

The Wine Writers' Circle of Canada tried a new tasting approach last year, and it worked out so well we're making it an annual affair. A call went out to wineries and agents asking for the sparkling wines that would be on offer this year. The response was tremendous, and the group was able to sample dozens of wines at one sitting. I'm especially pleased to be able to report that nearly any fizzy wine you buy in Ontario will be well made and satisfying. But if you're looking to stick with "top quartile performance", try any of the following.

Sparkling Wines Under $15

France: Remy Pannier Sparkling Brut - $10.15
The nose presents citrus and apple, which gives way to a slight nuttiness. Crisp and clean with a long lasting, mouthfilling mousse and a lemon candy impression. Good body and very good length. Tasty and satisfying, and excellent value. (LCBO 5967)

Spain: Codorniu Brut Clasico - $11.15
The mousse here is very long lasting. Aromas include melon, citrus, tropical fruits and spice. The palate is creamy smooth with lemon and ripe apple flavours. Refreshing and showing quite a bit of substance. (LCBO 6262)

Spain: Freixenet Carta Nevada - $11.95
The deep lemon-straw colour suggest something a bit meatier. Look for laid-back aromas of ripe apple and toast. The palate is crisp, with a medium mousse, lemon and hazelnut, and a nicely tart finish. (LCBO 352369)

Italy: Bottega Petalo Il Vino dell' Amore Moscato - $12.35
Loads of fine mousse, with medium straw colour. The nose shows gobs of muscat, musk and orange zest. The palate is huge and creamy, with juicy muscat flavour, nuances of apple and rose, and an attractive sweetness. Light bodied, with good length, it will delight moscato fans. (LCBO 58878)

Australia Banrock Station Sparkling Chardonnay - $12.80
The nose is rather light here, showing mainly apple. The palate shows a vigorous mouse, with a crisp and clean profile and lemon-apple flavours. A bit MOR, but good value. (LCBO 534974)

Italy: Bottego Vino dei Poeti Prosecco Brut - $13.35
The nose presents lush aromas of perfume, floral, grapefruit zest and some spice down deep. The mousse is very fine, complemented by rich berry, treefruits and apple flavours. A delightful, easy going wine that won't clash with any situation. (LCBO 897702)

Australia: Seaview Sparkling Shiraz - $13.95
The wine is red and so is the mousse. The blackberry aromas are offset by a slight woody note. The palate is a touch sweet, with raspberry flavour, light tannins and a nicely tart finish. Not everyone’s first choice, but certainly worth investigating. Try this one with meatloaf. (LCBO 644054)

France: Lulu B Rosé Extra Dry - $13.95
This traditional method sparkler offers a lot of bang for the buck. With a medium mousse atop its salmon pink frame, it shows delicate toasty lees, dried raspberry and a trace of apple. The palate has rich spice and ripe berry flavours with traces of apple and a vigorous, refreshing fizz. Very good body and length. Easy going and a great price. (LCBO 53231)

Chile (Patagonia): Fresita "Strawberry"- $13.95
The pale apply pink hue hints at something different. This refreshing wine is infused with strawberry flavour, resulting in a riot of strawberry, raspberry and bubblegum aromas. The palate is creamy, slightly sweet and candy like and, of course, dripping with strawberry. For fans of the berry, this would be just the thing. ( LCBO 56697)

Australia: Jacobs Creek Chardonnay/Pinot Noir Brut Cuvee - $13.95
On the nose look for light apple and grapefruit aromas with trances of stonefruits and spice. The palate is quite tasty, showing ripe apple flavour and a firm acidity. Lightish, with good length, long lasting mousse and a tart close, it would work nicely as an aperitif. (LCBO 562991)

Spain: Segura Viudas Lavit Brut Nature Cava - $14.95
So, is it brut (dry) or nature (really dry)? The nose shows a nice spiciness with aromas of ripe apple and freshly baked bread. The palate is light, with mainly apple flavour with quite a bit of tang. Understated, but in a classic style. (LCBO 277269)

Sparkling Wines $15 to $30

Italy: Neirano Brachetto D'Acqui DOCg - $15.95
A light mousse and bright apple pink colour. The nose screams muscat, plus nuances of blackcurrant, peach and floral. Sweet and creamy, with a light fizz and apricot/raspberry flavour. Light bodied, with good length, it reminds of Muscato d'Asti -- very nice. (Vintages 47225)

Spain: Codorniu Brut Cava Pinot Noir - $16.95
The mouse is slightly coarse, but long lasting, atop a coppery-coral robe. The nose is rich with pinot aromas, showing a gamey note accompanied by dried leaves and woodiness. The palate is delicate, well supported by the mousse, with raspberry flavour and a touch of tannin. Unique and very pleasant. (LCBO 665372)

Italy: Santa Margherita Prosecco Brut - $18.95
The nose shows spice, melon and definite biscuity notes. The somewhat modest palate has a light, frothy mousse and ripe apple flavour. Not much octane here. but a good performance overall. (Vintages 687572)

Italy: Belcanto Valdobbiadene DOC Extra Dry - $19.95
Valdobbiadene is usually associated with prosecco, a white grape. Whatever the underlying fruit may be, the result is an easy-going, modest wine that still gets the point across. The nose shows floral and stone fruits with hints of apple and musk. There’s a touch of sugar, alongside a refreshing acidity and apple-lemon flavour. (LCBO 53215)

California: Chandon Brut Classic - $24.15
From California we have this confident contender. The nose shows subtle aromas of apple and baked lemon. The rich mouse leads into apply flavours and a bit of toast, with a firm acidity and creamy mouthfeel. Soft spoken with very good character on the palate. (LCBO 94946)

California: Mumm Napa Brut Prestige - $28.45
Moving up the price scale, we expect a bit more. We find that here with a complex nose of citrus, lime, almond paste and a touch of yeasty lees. The palate is rich and substantial, rather chardonnay-like, with ripe apple and lemon flavours, and a fresh acidity. (LCBO 265678)

Ontario: Henry of Pelham Catherine Brut(LCBO 4051)
Catherine Rosé Brut (Vintages 616441) both at $29.95
The Catherine series of sparkling wines have been top performers from the start. Either the Brut or the Rosé would be sure to satisfy, (the rosé version shows a bit of garrigue, likely from the Pinot Noir).

Sparkling Wines Over $30

France: Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Demi Sec - $66.00
Off dry champagne isn't all that common, so it's nice to see one this well done. The nose shows lovely lees and baked lemon, with hints of lemon and smoke. Creamy and mouthfilling, it has rich caramel apple flavour at just the right level of sweetness. Very good body and length. (LCBO 38307)

From "The Frugal Oenophile's Lexicon of Wine Tasting Terms"

A shallow, saucer-like glass that should never be used for sparkling wines.
 

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Inspirational Quote

Age is just a number. It’s totally irrelevant unless, of course, you happen to be a bottle of wine - Joan Collins