Wine Appreciation Through Education

Located just a short hop east of Grimsby, along Niagara's wine route, Thirty Bench hardly gives the impression of an ambitious winery. The small clapboard building that houses the wine boutique is plain, even humble, but don't be fooled by the appearance. These people know their stuff.

Most days you are greeted by Morgan, a black lab of advancing years and gentle disposition. Inside, the boutique is spare -- a largish room that enjoys lots of light from a row of windows overlooking rich, green vineyards. The light is augmented by a trio of skylights in the tasting room proper. One wall is taken up with row upon row of wine. Along the opposite wall is the tasting bar. Around the room are displays of well-chosen wine trinkets and gift suggestions. My favourite is a display of "mislabelled" bottles for which you take a small gamble on the wine's identity (but not its quality.) The staff are amiable and very knowledgeable, and effectively help visitors explore the wines. The entire wine catalogue is available for tasting.

Thirty Bench specializes in all styles of riesling, having some 25 acres planted to that grape. The three winemakers have another 40 acres to draw on that are planted with traditional red and white vinifera grapes. I spent an afternoon there recently, signing copies of my book, chatting with wine fans, and enjoying the hospitality of this lively little winery. Here's what I discovered. (All wines are VQA unless noted otherwise.)

Semi-dry Riesling 2000 - $10.95
Pale lemon-straw colour. Gorgeous nose: principally apple and petrol with a touch of pine. Solid on the palate with an approachable acidity. Very fresh, nicely sweet, with lots of fruit to back it up. Good body and length, with a lovely, fruity close. On a par with some of the best German rieslings I've tried. Very elegant, and the price will be hard to beat. In a word, classy.

Moutainview White 2000 - $10.95 (Riesling/Vidal)
Pale steely almond yellow. Oodles of honey, perfume and peaches on the nose. Presents a darkish mood on the palate. Almost seems oaked, with just a hint of sweetness. Medium body and good length, with a lot of fruit and tangy acidity on the close. Not as cheery as their vidal-riesling blend (which this replaces) but still very nice.

Limited Yield Riesling Semi-sweet 1999 - $19.95
Mid straw coloured with a slight greeny caste. Quite subtle on the nose, with nuances of honey, petrol and stone fruits. Honey-like on the palate, silky smooth with a soft acidity. Medium-plus body with nice length and a shot of petrol on the close. Delicate, elegant, very flavourful, and not too sweet to find a place at the table.

Chardonnay Tradition 1999 - $12.95 (Available at LCBO stores, 572149)
Lemon-lime gold colour. Rich chardonnay character showing classic wood tones followed by apple, vanilla bean, pinewood, and a touch of banana. Spicy acidity with a hint of smoke on the back palate. Lots of spice; rich and smooth with a solid acidic backbone. Quite full bodied and long, with lots of spice and smoke throughout. An intense wine with tons of character that will easily handle heavier foods — provided it's not over chilled. Handle as you would good white burgundy.

Reserve Chardonnay Reif Vineyard 1998 - $35.00
Bright honey-gold colour. Intense spicy oak, quince and baked apple. Lots of spice, oak and butter on the palate. Quite full bodied, long and spicy, with tons of sweet oak. Intense, almost racy, with a very long evolution. A champion of a wine that will evolve nicely for years but is fabulous right now.

Trillium Red 1999 - $12.50
Light apple red in colour. A vinous nose with raspberry, cherry and resin notes. The palate shows cherry skins with a nippy acidity and a touch of smoke on the back palate. Solid body, quite long and even, with fruit carrying right to the end. A heavy-duty rosé style that could appeal to a broad audience.

Trillium Blush - $9.50 (Not VQA)
Peachy coral colour with aromas of dried strawberries, rosemary and a hint of pine. Sweeter than expected, but pleasantly so. A fine yet racy acidity, with some cherry notes on the palate. Medium body and length, with nice evolution of fruit through the finish. More challenging than a blush and more food friendly. I called it 'zippy' in my notes. (VQA status was withheld because of the acidity level, which is an issue in the lab but not in the mouth!)

Moutainview Blush 2000 - $10.95
Pale, brilliant coppery peach colour. Reminds of riesling, with up-front honey and peach aromas, plus a hint of blackberry. Nicely sweet with a touch of pepper and an almost searing acidity. Medium-full bodied, with good length. Bright and cheery: a good-time wine for sharing on the back patio. Has enough character to hold up in a noisy environment.

Tradition Cabernet Franc 2000 - $9.95
Pale garnet colour. Cedar, leather, dried fruit, and blackberry aromas. Major oak, berries, smoke, leather, laid back tannins, and fine acidity on the palate. Medium-full bodied; long with a pronounced acidity. Good all-rounder.

Tradition Cabernets Merlot 1999 - $15.30
Deep pruney garnet. Opulent plum aromas plus slight spice, blackcurrant and vegetable. Interesting on the palate, softly tannic with fine acidity and more plums. Good body and length with the fruit making a statement on the close. Might benefit from a bit more age.

Benchmark Reserve Cabernet Franc 1999 - $45.00
Deep black cherry colour. Luscious sweet oak, cedar, leather and black raspberry on the nose. Quite fruity with a racy acidity, up-front oak, sweet fruit flavours, and solid tannins. Big bodied, with good length, showing creamy oak and an undercurrent of juicy berries. An oak-driven showpiece. Total class.

Benchmark Reserve Merlot 1999 - $45.00
Dark black cherry colour. Up-front aromas of spicy oak, black cherries, liquorice, and clove. Lots of fruity layers including dark berries and plums, with a beet-like vegetable note on the back palate. Very full bodied and quite long with an intriguing development. Oak-driven, complex and loaded with finesse. Lots to discover and eminently gulpable.

Benchmark Reserve Blend 1999 - $45.00
Deep garnet colour. Cedar, leather, dark plum, and dried cherry aromas. Quite moody with tons of juicy fruits; soft, dusty tannins; and a firm acidity. Somewhat mellow, almost fat, with very good length, showing smoke and toasty oak on the finish. Should age well for a few years, tho' quite approachable now. Elegant, with lots of character.

 Tasting Date: July 6/02