The Frugal Oenophile Visits Creekside Estate Winery


	*Wine Appreciation Through Education*

Creekside Estate Winery 4362 Jordan Road Jordan Station, Ontario L0R 1S0
A small horde of designated tasters descended on Creekside recently to preview the wines that would be featured at the 2002 Fiesta Buckhorn. I came away with even more respect for this capable young winery and the tasting room's amiable host, Barb Worth. In the rich ambience of the Creekside barrel room, we sampled 10 recent vintages -- all of them good, some of them splendid, and any one of them worthy of consideration.
	My first encounter with Niagara's Creekside was when the winery was barely a year old. The most salient feature of the winery that day was an enormous hole behind the boutique, where you could see the outline of the underground barrel cellar beginning to take shape. I also remember a wonderful lunch accompanied by a stream of estate wines. One wine in particular stood out: a Bordeaux-style red blend that had impressive depth and elegance. It was the pet project of co-owner Laura McCain-Jenson, and was soon after renamed "Laura's Blend".
Be sure to put Creekside on your list of "must visit" wineries and, if you visit the barrel room, be sure to dress warmly. After all, it is a wine cellar.

Sauvignon Blanc VQA 2000 - $17.95
Bright, pale steely lemon colour. Awesome grapefruit nose, very lush fruit with a touch of pineapple and just a hint of tar. Very lively citrus, extra crisp acidity, lovely fruit on the fore palate. For a moment it almost seemed sweet. Medium-full body with good length. A crisp, wonderfully cleansing wine with lots of classic character. Try with risotto or whitefish.

Gewürztraminer VQA 2000 - $12.95
Brilliant pale lemon-lime colour. A subtle nose that seems more riesling than gewurz, with aromas of dried peaches and honey, with a touch of lychee. Very crisp with a lemony palate, almost searing acidity and slowly emerging fruit. Fairly full bodied and long with very nice development. This is a fully dry wine in the Alsace tradition. An unusual style, but very welcome. Bound to be a terrific food wine despite Gewürztraminer's reputation of being difficult. Would work well with pork tenderloin or simple ham sandwiches.

Chardonnay VQA 2000 - $15.95
Medium lemon-gold colour. Up-front oak with aromas of vanilla, lemon, apple, and pear. Lively juicy fruit flavours, subtle sweet oak, wonderfully crisp with very good structure. Almost full bodied, long and even with a spicy close. A terrific example of cool climate chardonnay, an exercise in finesse and elegance. My choice for salmon in cream sauce.

Signature Chardonnay VQA 1999 - $30
Brilliant honey-gold colour. Subtle aromas of with vanilla and spice with warm oak on top. Vibrant, juicy oak on the palate with firm acidity; lush and smokey. Gutsy and very long with spice and oak coming to the foreground. Almost Chablis in style except for the delicious oak. Classy and elegant, possibly dangerous. An ample match for roast beef.

Creekside Rosé VQA 2000 - $10.55
Brilliant candy-apple red. Shows both gewürztraminer and cabernet roots. Aromas of maraschino cherry, quince, spice caramel, and a touch of floral. Crisp yet delicate with cab character and a firm acidity. Substantial body for a rosé, quite long and even. Fun and serious at the same time, as a sipper or food wine. Would work nicely with cold cuts or sharp cheeses.

Signature Pinot Noir VQA 1999 - $35
Mahogany-ruby colour. Intense with aromas of green pepper, cedar, cranberries, and chokecherry with a tiny whiff of barnyard. Sprightly on the palate with good acidity, very soft tannins, smokey spice on the back palate and a pleasant tartness. Medium-full bodied and very long, it’s a bit young right now, but very drinkable. Better to wait a bit.

Signature Merlot VQA 1999 - $40
Deep, clear, black cherry-garnet colour. Subtle pepper spice and plum aromas. Luscious and vibrant. Slightly pungent. Very smooth on the palate, with some silky spice and a nice interplay between the acidity and the tannins. Medium-plus body with very nice length. Slick, elegant, very classy.

Signature Cabernet Sauvignon VQA 1999 - $40
Deep, inky black cherry colour. Black pepper, blackberry, spice, blueberry and a slight smokiness on the nose, with a touch of oak. Good character, quite full on the palate, very smooth with just-right tannins and loaded with jammy fruit. Lush and full-bodied, long and well balanced. Perfect with rack of lamb or beef stew.

Laura’s Blend VQA 2000 - $18.95
Deep garnet colour, with a bright red rim. Light oak, accompanied by nuances of spice, green pepper, and blackberries. Juicy crushed berry impression on the palate, with sweet tannins. Very full bodied and long with a sweet berry finish. Very much in the Bordeaux style. Drinking well now but will be even better in a couple of years.

Select Late Harvest Vidal VQA 2000 - $17.95
Medium honey-gold. Excellent icewine nose with aromas of peaches, honey, nuts, and a hint of sherry. Firmly acidic, though light on the palate. Light bodied with good length and a nicely sweet finish. Simple, unserious and very likeable.

Tasting Date: Apr 28/02