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Wine Appreciation Through Education |
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3550 King Street Vineland, Ontario L0R 2C0 905-562-5625 |
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With just two vintages under their belts, Kacaba is poised to do great things with Niagara grapes. Located in Vineland, near the eastern edge of Beamsville, this young winery is turning out winner after winner. Part of the reason is winemaker Jim Warren, who is a virtual icon in the Ontario wine industry, aided and abetted by the talents of winemaker Rob Warren (who, incidentaly, is not related to Jim.) Kacaba (pronounced kuh-SAW-buh) is a small, family owned winery with the stated goal of producing ultra-premium wines. The road leading up to the winery crosses what appears to be an army grade bridge. A sign acknowledges the creakiness but assures us that it will hold a tank. As you cross the bridge, be sure to look into the ravine below. It has been planted with syrah vines to take advantage of the heat that collects in the hollow. The winery/tasting room is a rustic cottage that is nestled between the edge of the woods and an expanse of vineyard, looking like something out of Country Living magazine. As well as offering tastings of all currently available wines, the winery can be booked for special occasions. The day I was there the staff were abuzz preparing for an upcoming wedding. Production stands at 5000 cases annually and will increase eventually to 12,000 cases. Grapes are both estate grown and bought in. I spent an afternoon at Kacaba and managed to try all of wines on their list. The hallmark of these wines is an overriding consistency of quality. From the lowest priced blend to the most expensive varietal, all seemed to come from the same hand. I found all of the wines to be drinkable now, but I expect that most of them will only get better in time. Here are my tasting notes. |
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A blend of Vidal, Reisling and Viognier. Pale lemon-gold in colour, with fruity aromas of pear, ripe apples, playful spring blossoms, and a whisper of petrol. Slightly sweet impression with a burst of acidity, more floral notes and a bit of caramel. Medium bodied with good length and good fruit throughout. An excellent aperitif that would pair well with sweeter dishes such as fruited pork or anything with apricots in it. |
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Bright lemon-straw colour in the glass. Aromas of toasty lees, citrus, orange zest, and a touch of floral. Slight lanolin texture on the tongue, with good citrus flavours. Delicate but with substance. Good body and length, with lots of fruit showing through. Serve with whitefish or chill and sip on the patio. |
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Delicate pale straw colour. Layer upon layer of floral, apricot, melon, crushed leaves, vanilla, and petrol. Smoke and toast on the palate, with a subtle, wood-like aroma. Quite mouth filling with tropical fruits emerging on the back palate. A perfect match for roast pork, although I'd be tempted to serve it with just about anything. Scrumptious! |
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Brilliant deep honey-gold. Sumptuous sweet oak on top, with a touch of vanilla bean, dried fruits, tropical fruits, and diesel fuel. Complex and gutsy, very full bodied and long, with the oak fading to citrus and then to a firm acidic close. Substantial wine that will work well at the table. Cellaring a few bottles could be very rewarding. |
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Deep honey-lemon colour. Luscious sweet oak on top, with aromas of ripe apples, banana, melon, butter, and a touch of caramel. Fat, viscous, smooth, and buttery on the palate. Quite full bodied, long and spicy, with more oak and a trace of acidity on the close. A big, complex wine that demands challenging food. |
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A novel blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that is not without precedent. Coppery cotton-candy colour, showing raspberries, strawberries and delicate perfume on the nose. Soft and delicate on the palate, somewhat juicy, with dark berries evolving nicely. Complex for a light bodied rosé. |
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A blend of Pinot Noir and the little-seen De Chaunac. Deep plum coloured. All the right aromas -- tobacco, soft oak, barnyard, raspberry, currant, and a touch of pepper. Berry flavours follow in the palate with almost no tannins and a slight acidic bite. Medium body and length with a nicely balanced finish. An easy-going party wine. |
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Light cranberry/ruby colour. Aromas of beetroot, leather, black raspberry, tobacco, and cranberry -- all nicely layered. Delicately flavoured, supple, smooth, and elegant. A lighter style that still presents a full flavour profile. Medium-plus body and medium length, it's a wonderful partner for lighter, yet serious fair, or lamb. Should develop nicely in the cellar. |
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Full ruby colour -- quite light for a merlot. Ripe plums, mineral, wet cement, and a whisper of oak on the nose. Velvety smooth, almost sweet berry and black cherry flavours. Mouthfilling with soft tannins and a noticeable acidity. Medium-full bodied with good, even length. A friendly, juicy, fruit-driven style that might get more serious in a few years. Try with roast beef, roast lamb, or tomato sauces. |
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Black cherry colour. Aromas include cherry, raspberry, strawberry, tobacco, green wood, and caramel. The palate shows a burst of juicy, sweet fruit flavours with a good tannic backbone. Fairly full bodied with good length, and a solid tannic grip. One for the cellar, only because it promises to deliver more, yet drinkable and food friendly now. |
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Deep garnet colouring. Luscious, heady Cabernet nose filled with smoke, cedar, dried cherry, bell pepper, and cigar box. Firm acidity and tannins, with fruit flavours emerging from the background. Rich cherry follow-through. Full bodied but not too aggressive, with a long, understated finish. Yummy, but some cellar time would allow the elements to come together a bit more. |
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Tasting Date: August 10/02 |
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