Wine Appreciation Through Education

Peninsula Ridge Estates Winery
5600 King Street West
Regional Road 81
Beamsville, Ontario L0R 1B0

Peninsula Ridge winery, located on Niagara's Beamsville Bench, is unique for several reasons, not the least of which is its rapid rise to prominence. With their first vintage, released barely a year and a half ago, they immediately won accolades, especially for their Reserve Chardonnay. Winemaker Jean-Pierre Colas honed his skills in Burgundy and he brings a definite old-world savvy to the Peninsula Ridge cellars.

The cellars also are unique in that they contain nearly 300 French-only oak barrels from a variety of coopers. Each barrel will be used no more than three times before being refurbished and sold to some lucky winery. This commitment to oak prompted the winery to host a barrel "summit" in their cellars earlier this year. Winemakers and coopers from around the world attended to discuss the role of oak in fine Ontario wines. (Read about the summit in the Wine Access July/August 2001 issue).

The Peninsula Ridge wine boutique is a tribute to Canadian heritage. An ancient post-and-beam barn serves as the framework. After raising the floor and installing a modern infrastructure, the barn was rebuilt using antique barn boards sourced locally. The second floor wine shop serves as an antique boutique.

The tasting room is bright, modern and welcoming. Through the tall windows, you can see the coach house, which can be booked for special occasions, and the newly opened restaurant. The red brick Victorian house that houses the restaurant also adorns the Peninsula Ridge label.

I was invited to sample Peninsula Ridge's new vintages just a few weeks before Christmas -- a nice way to start the holiday season. I'd tried Peninsula Ridge wines a number of times before, so I was anxious to spend more time exploring.

Vidal Icewine VQA 2000 - $44.95
I want to lead off with the last wine tasted. With so many "me too" icewines floating around, it was a pleasure to experience Jean-Pierre's interpretation. I sampled the wine at around noon, and as I write, five hours, a slice of pizza and two coffees later, I can still taste this wine! Very dark honey-gold in colour, it virtually leaps out of the glass with aromas of ripe apricot, honey, dried peaches, and a hint of caramel: an amazing nose by any standard. Awesomely smooth, juicy and viscous with a gentle acidity on the back palate. Very full bodied with amazing length that fades to a generous, fruity finish. Easily the equal of icewines costing much more.
Chardonnay 2000 - $12.95
Very bright lemony gold colour, with aromas of pear and spicy oak alongside traces of vanilla and caramel. Vibrant, with a lot of finesse. Very bright, juicy fruit flavours. Excellent acidity with a slight citrus note and toasty oak on the back palate. Quite full bodied with a long, spicy and well-balanced finish. A terrific wine that will be available on the LCBO general list in the New Year.
Inox Chardonnay 2000 - $29.95
Bright almond gold colour in the glass. Aromas of mineral, spice, and green apple, with hints of smoke and mint. Very racy acidity and slightly smokey on the palate. Medium-full bodied with a long finish that fades to a light tartness. Think chablis, with subtle elegance and finesse. Needs 2-3 years to properly show itself. Only 100 cases made. (The Inox name refers to the totally stainless steel treatment. No oak here.)
Reserve Chardonnay 2000 - $39.95
Deep bright gold appearance suggests a lot of oak. French oak is evident on top, very spicy aromas of cloves and cardamom, citrus, banana and lime peel. Rich, yummy oak on the palate with a racy acidity and loads of spice. Very good body and length. A robust chard that is oaked to perfection.
Cabernet 2000 - $14.95
A blend of cab sauv and cab franc, 50% of which is oaked. A young purpley ruby in colour, its aromas include dried blueberries, black current, and some barnyard, Bing cherries, and just a hint of oak. Slightly tart with soft tannins and good berry flavours. Quite full bodied with a long, balanced finish that ends in a nice acidic push. Much too young to fully appreciate at this stage. Also destined for the LCBO General List in 2002.
Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 - $18.95
Deep ruby colour with aromas of subtle oak, dark plums, talc, and cooked bacon. Mouth-filling and luscious, with soft tannins and a whiff of smoke on the back palate. Very full and very long. A treat now if decanted, but will amply repay a few years of cellaring.
Cabernet Franc 2000 - $18.95
Bright purple-cherry colouring. Aromas of dried cherry, leather, plum, spice, and a slight volatility. Quite nippy and juicy, with bright cranberry and red currant flavours. Very full with very good length. Bright, cheery and flexible, with just a touch of oak.
Merlot 2000 - $21.95
Pale cherry red. Shows an interesting hodge-podge of aromas including roasted pepper, herbs and spice, cherry, vanilla, and bacon fat. Very juicy and sleek, walking a delicate balance between the acids and tannins. Very good body and good length, fading to a spicy finish. Should develop nicely over the next few years.
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 - $29.95
Purpley black cherry colour. Rich aromas of mint, pine bough, herbs and spices, dried cherry, and cracked pepper. Pepper spice on the palate, with a subtle hint of oak and smokiness. Quite full bodied with a long, berry-laden and well-balanced finish. Big, bold and beautiful.
Reserve Merlot/Cabernet 2000 - $29.95
Deep garnet with a purple edge. Presents subtle berry aromas with nuances of pepper, coffee, leather, and oak. Yummy and smooth, with barely detectable tannins and a light acidity on the back palate. Medium-full body and more berries on the long finish.
Meritage 2000 - $39.95
Bright purple-garnet colour. Up-front spice, just a trace of oak, delicate aromas of currants, black pepper, and baked green pepper. Amazingly spicy, finishing with a blast of oak. Full-ish body with a long, lightly tannic finish. This is Jean-Pierre's favourite blend.
End Note: The winery is expermenting with Syrah grapes, so we can look forward to this interesting addition to their tasting list.

Tasting Date: December 11, 2001


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