The Frugal Oenophile visits Strewn Winery


	*Wine Appreciation Through Education*

Strewn Winery
1339 Lakeshore Road, R.R. #3
Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario L0S 1J0

I recently had an opportunity to spend some time at Strewn Winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake. I've enjoyed a number of Strewn wines in the past, so I was eager to linger when wine-maker Joe Will invited me to sample a few selections.

Strewn is about 7 years old, and each year has seen evolution in both the wines and the winery itself. They have a lovely, large tasting room and now are home to an on-site restaurant. Both the winery and the restaurant are receiving rave reviews. In Wine Access magazine's recent Canadian Wine awards, Strewn took home several medals and lots of praise from the judges. The winery is also the site of the Wine Country Cooking School.

My tasting with Joe Will was a rare privilege in that I was treated to vertical as well as comparative tastings. We sampled four vintages of their Strewn Vineyard Riesling. Sorry to say, I neglected to take notes when we compared two oaked Chardonnays, both from the same vineyard with the only difference being that one was finished in French oak and the other in American oak. Quite an eye-opener. Anyone who says American oak is undesirable in quality wines should try this test.

When I asked Joe about his wine-making style, he said that he hoped it was a Canadian style. He has studied and made wine in a variety of settings and believes that Niagara is one of the best wine regions in the world. His mission is to use carefully-selected grape varieties to express our unique terroir. The proof is in the 14 wines profiled below. Any one of them would satisfy, and if there were any commonality I could point out, it is the freshness that so readily comes across in well-made Niagara wines.

Riesling 1994 - $14.75
This was Joe's first vintage for Strewn. Deep honey gold in colour. Lovely delicate nose with slight apple, tree fruit and apricot aromas, and a whiff of petrol. Smokey on the back palate. Very bright acidity, with peach and tropical fruit flavours. Decent body and length. Holding well, although a bit subtle at this stage. Only 10.5% alcohol, which could explain its light body.

Riesling Reserve, Strewn Vineyard 1997 - $13.50
Bright mid yellow gold. Subtle nose with hints of tropical fruits, apple and the merest twinge of petrol. Very spicy on the palate with a crisp acidity. Very good body and quite long. Only a few cases left, so hurry! This one is exceptional.

Riesling Reserve, Strewn Vineyard 1998 - $13.50
Mid lemony-gold colour. Divine subtle nose with citrus, a hint of petrol, some tree fruit, and just a trace of the obligatory rubber. Very crisp and clean on the palate...racy, with good expression of fruit. Medium bodied with a crisp, appley finish. Very refreshing.

Riesling, Strewn Vineyard 1999 - $13.50
Bright mid-lemony gold with a hint of green. Lively, sweetish nose with chalk (mineral), gooseberries, roses, tropical fruits, and orange peel. Slightly tart, a bit vague on the palate but with a good dose of fruit. Medium bodied with a smooth, medium finish that fades to a mild tartness. Delicious now but it would be tempting to hold it for 1-2 years.

Chardonnay Barrel Aged 1998 - $12.45
Bright lemon with a hint of green. Some spice on the nose with a light citrus and subtle tree fruit nose. Slightly gamey with good acidity and just a trace of oak on the back palate. Good body with a long, fresh, oakey finish. Lots of finesse here: a very good effort.

Terroir Chardonnay 1998 - $18.95
Mid lemony gold colouring. Lots of up-front oak, vanilla, pear, apple, and crushed leaves. Very crisp with lovely oak on the back palate. A bit moody. Quite full bodied and long, fading to spicy oak and crisp acidity. Worthy of the many medals it's won.

Terroir Chardonnay 1999 - $18.95
Bright lemony gold in the glass. Mineral, subtle oak, spices, nutmeg, slight apple and citrus nose. Juicy on the palate, with rich oak. Excellent balance. Quite full bodied and long. A high-class wine exhibiting opulence and finesse at the same time.

Merlot 1999 - $14.95
Deep cranberry colour. Up-front oak, plums, dried cherry, red licorice, and dried fruits. Very smooth and soft on the palate with lush berry flavours and soft tannins. Medium bodied with good length fading to just a hint of tannin. Dangerously gulpable!

Terroir Cabernet Franc 1998 - $23.95
Deep garnet colour. Aromas of dried fruits with leather, barnyard and mineral notes. Quite full on the palate with very good balance, silky tannins, and lovely fruit flavours. Quite robust and very long, with fruit all the way through, fading to a soft tannic finish. Full marks all around.

Terroir Cab Franc 1999 - $17.95
Bright deep ruby colouring. Aromas include leather, subtle oak, dried fruits, and raspberries. A bit sharp on the palate; juicy with nice balance. Quite full-bodied, long and fruity, with firm tannins on the finish.

Strewn 3 1998 - $28.95
Bright deep garnet colour. Lovely up-front fruit, spices, cardamom and cedar. Somewhat chianti-like with aromas that suggest roast turkey. Medium body and length, with a well-balanced finish and soft, dusty tannins.

Strewn 3 1999 - $23.95
Bright deep ruby. Slightly woody, with cherries, spices and a hint of barnyard. Slight gaminess with berries and soft tannins on the palate. Fairly good body with a long finish that fades to soft tannins and acidity.

Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 - $23.95
Deep raisiny garnet. Lush berry aromas, especially dried cherries. Very solid on the palate, full bodied and long. This wine will be stunning if given the time it needs to soften and fully express itself.

Cabernets 1998 - $19.95
Very deep garnet colour. Spicy wood, cedar, cardamom, green pepper, fresh cherries and slight leather note on the nose. Luscious and juicy. Smooth, with lots of berry flavours and soft tannins. Very good body with a long, balanced finish. Impressive.

Tasting Date: November 23, 2001