Wine Appreciation Through Education

Thomas & Vaughan Vintners
4245 King Street
Beamsville,Ontario
905-563-7737
 The name Kocsis (pronounced KOE-sis) is a familiar one to Niagara winemakers. The Kocsis family has been providing high quality winegrapes to local vintners for years. In 1998, Thomas Kocsis, a second generation wine-grower, decided to bring his extensive viticultural and winemaking knowledge to the Niagara wine industry. Along with wife Barbara Vaughan, Thomas opened Thomas & Vaughan Vintners along the Niagara wine route in Beamsville, releasing their first vintage of just 500 barrels in 1999. In 2002, production increased to 5000 barrels. The winery also sells winegrape juice to local amateur winemakers.  

 
 The estate winery now farms some 40 acres of vineyards. While popular vinifera grapes make up the bulk of the acreage, T & V haven't lost sight of the value of Niagara's "traditional" grapes. The winery offers Baco Noir, Maréchal Foch, Vidal, and de Chaunac, all of which produce excellent and award-winning wines. Since opening their doors, the winery has received more than 50 awards for their estate wines.
 Thomas Kocsis credits the quality of the wines to the "red soil" on the estate farm. Grapevines struggle against the heavy clay soil and, in effect, self-limit the crop. The grapes are small, by local standards, which Thomas believes helps to concentrate the flavours. The result are wines that show wonderful aromatics and extract.

 
 I spent an afternoon at the winery recently and was treated to a broad range of wines. Here are my observations.

Thomas & Vaughan Riesling Off-dry VQA 2000 - $9.95
Pale straw colour. Aromas of lime and lemon with hints of grass, caramel and quince. Quite lemony on the palate with a dark, moody, almost woody impression. Good body and length. Bright and cheery. Best with mild fish.

*** SOLD OUT ***

Thomas & Vaughan Pinot Gris VQA 2001 - $13.95
Pale straw colour with a touch of coral. Aromas include floral, grapefruit, orange zest, melon, and a touch of lemon. Spicy lemon on the palate, with a hint of wood on the close. Quite light, with good length.

Thomas & Vaughan Chardonnay VQA 2000 - $7.95
Bright lemony-gold colour. Pear, almond, apple, grapefruit, lemon and a port-like note on the nose. Quite spicy on the palate, with very good body and length. Chablis-like, though less racy.

Thomas & Vaughan Chardonnay Vintner's Select VQA - $10.95
Bright lemon-gold. Subtle aromas of oak, butter and olives. Spicy oak on the palate, with traces of butter, orange and vanilla. Full bodied, long and spicy, with a firm acidic spine. Quite yummy. Hearty enough for roast beef, cream sauces or broiled salmon.

Thomas & Vaughan Chardonnay Estate Reserve VQA 1999 - $16.50
Honey-lemon colour with a touch of brown. Aromas of coconut, vanilla, and a hint of oak -- slightly sherrified. Rich, fat and buttery, with solid acidity, finishing off with caramel and coconut nuances. Big and long with spice and oak on the close. Try with aged cheddar, pecorino or roast beef.

Thomas & Vaughan Chardonnay Estate VQA 2000 - $24.95
Rich lemon-gold colour. Huge spicy oak up front, alongside vanilla beans, baked apple, lemon, and a bit of caramel. Savoury, elegant, rich, and silky. Huge spicy oak and fruit flavours. Very full bodied, long and spicy, with a solid acidic backbone. That this wine took a gold medal is no surprise. Try with beef stew, oily fish, or rich sauces.

Thomas & Vaughan Cabernet VQA 1999 - $12.95
Rich bright ruby colour. Plum, cherry, cumin, raspberry, clove, and a hint of licorice. Juicy, good berry expression, and softish tannins offset by a solid acid backbone. Good body and length. Easy going with good character, solid on the palate. Displays classic "clean" Niagara profile. Upwardly mobile steak and burger wine.

Thomas & Vaughan De Chaunac VQA 1999 - $12.95
Deep purpley black cherry. Shows rich plum, black cherry, spice, vanilla, and light oak. Less interesting on the palate, though with good acidity and soft tannins. Good body and length. Nothing amiss here -- a good quaffer that will be a hit with white wine drinkers. Try with flavourful fish, pork or milder cheeses.

Thomas & Vaughan Maréchal Foch VQA 2001 - $13.95
Rich, inky black cherry with an overlay of purple. Ripe black currant, cherry juice, spice, and vanilla. Rich berry flavours with smoky oak, spicy acidity and soft tannins. Quite full bodied with good length, evolving nicely through to the close. Very meaty wine that needs something substantial to pair with. Go for rich stews, full bodied roasts or game.

Thomas & Vaughan Baco Noir VQA 2001 - $14.95
Inky black cherry colour with a trace of purple. Aromas include walnuts, black currant and leather, with a touch of oak. Very young (it was bottled the day before my visit), full and rich with firm acidity, soft tannins and sweetish berries. Very long and rich right to the end. Needs 1-3 years of cellar time at which point it will be terrific.

Tholmas & Vaughan Cabernet Franc 1999 - $49.95
Full black cherry colour. rich oak, vanilla, blackcurrant, moneral and green tobacco. Massice, sumptuous, with huge berry flavours. crisp acidity and mellow tannins. Fat and long. Mouth candy. (Feb 1/03)

Thomas & Vaughan Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve VQA 1999 - $19.95
Bright ruby-garnet. Pepper, plum, raspberry, blackberry, with hints of cherry and green pepper. Rich tannins, firm acidity, and rich, juicy berry flavours. Good body and length. Comes across as young, so give it another year or two.

Thomas & Vaughan Meritage 2000 - $24.95
 Inky black cherry colour. Ripe plum and dark chocolate with a touch of barnyard. Sweet, jammy berry flavours, sikly tannins,strawberry and resapbery flavours, with a firm acid spine. Good body, long with good eveolatoin. Slightly tart, but solid and worthy of some cellar time.(Feb 1/03)

Tasting Date: January 16, 2003

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